2024/09 Moschino – Collezione 0
Details:
Moschino
Collezione 0
Fall-Winter 2024
Via della Spiga 6, Milan
Review:
by Peter Hamer
september 19, 2024
In my previous review of Moschino’s 2023 Christmas display, I noted the uncertainties the brand faced during a pivotal moment in its history. Now, nine months into Adrian Appiolaza’s tenure and with the release of Collezione 0, we see the window display that coincides with Milan’s SS25 Fashion Week. The concept of this display is straightforward: a supermarket, likely inspired by campaign imagery featuring a model styled similarly to the mannequins in the display.
However, this is not an ordinary supermarket—it is entirely black and white, with all products stripped of color and vibrancy. This aesthetic choice brings to mind a nostalgic reference to the past, but one that appears devoid of the joy often associated with such imagery. The campaign itself, shot in what seems to be a non-Italian market, possibly ties into Appiolaza’s personal roots. Yet, the display uses English labels for quintessentially Italian products, which adds a layer of cultural ambiguity that could either provoke curiosity or confusion, depending on the viewer.
The public response has been mixed, with many comments reflecting a sense of nostalgia. Phrases like “this looks like…,” or “this reminds me of…” suggest that the display resonates with memories of the brand’s past. However, these comments, while positive, do not necessarily indicate that the display is transcending into a contemporary or relevant space. The supermarket concept itself is one that has been explored by numerous brands, including Moschino, as well as others, such as the well-known Chanel show. Although this particular concept was never used as a window display for Chanel, the broader theme of the supermarket has become a recurrent motif in fashion.
As someone who has also explored the supermarket theme in window displays, I understand the creative potential it holds. The idea itself is versatile, but its execution is key. While Moschino’s reference to Franco Moschino is clear in this display, it seems to function on a more superficial level, replicating the surface elements without delving into the deeper layers of the original creative vision. Franco Moschino’s vision was distinctive and deeply personal, a vision that previous creative directors like Jeremy Scott were able to tap into successfully, especially during his early years with the brand.
Creating such displays involves significant effort and intention, and it is important to acknowledge the complexity of this process. However, with great effort often comes high expectations, and with high expectations, there is always the risk of disappointment. While it is encouraging to see Franco Moschino’s influence being remembered, there remains a delicate balance between honoring his legacy and evolving the brand in a sustainable and contemporary direction.
This brings to mind the theme explored in the 2017 film *Coco*, where the line between memory and commercialization is often fine. In fashion, the challenge lies not only in remembering iconic figures but also in translating their vision into a business model that remains innovative and relevant in the present.
