2024/06 Miu Miu – Miu Miu L’Été
Details:
Miu Miu
Miu Miu L’Eté
Spring-Summer 2024
Via Sant’Andrea 21, Milan
Review:
by Peter Hamer
August 3, 2024
While I’m rounding up my book on the principles of scientific visual merchandising, Miu Miu’s recent success is a prime example of these principles in action. Despite a broader luxury market slowdown, Miu Miu’s revenue surged by 93% in the first half of 2024, driven by strong demand from Gen Z and the Asia-Pacific region. And while this success seems to come out of nowhere, I argue that it is the result of fantastic “getting the house in order” for a while now—something that wasn’t talked about but just done. I’ve covered similar themes while reviewing other Prada concepts, but Miu Miu deserves special attention for how seamlessly they’ve aligned with the principles I’ve been championing.
Now, I’m not going to compare Miu Miu to other brands—because that’s not how I want to roll here—but rather show how the principles I talk about have been perfectly reflected in Miu Miu’s (and Prada’s) visual merchandising over the last few seasons. When you walk past a Miu Miu store, there’s no confusion. There’s no “I don’t get it,” no “single product,” no “who would wear this?” It’s bam, in-your-face clarity. And surprisingly, in a market flooded with brands trying too hard to be different, this straightforward approach is incredibly refreshing. Miu Miu is just cool in its unapologetic simplicity.
The core “succo” behind my principles is clarity. And while clarity might sound simple, it’s the most misunderstood concept in visual merchandising. Clarity means that the customer immediately understands what you’re selling. It creates a dialogue among customers, it doesn’t confuse them. The moment you create any sense of doubt in the customer’s mind, you’ve lost them. And let me tell you, Miu Miu has mastered this. They’ve tapped into something that other brands often overlook: consistency. While other brands are constantly rebranding, changing their identity to catch fleeting trends, Miu Miu sticks to its guns. They’ve been doing the same thing for years—same logo, same stores, same story—and in a world of extreme confusion, that goes a friggin’ long way. Don’t believe me? Let’s look at the cherry on top of the cake of consistency: Hermès.
Back to Miu Miu. Their visual merchandising isn’t about “luring the customer in,” “stopping them in their tracks,” or “making them dream.” Those are outdated and ineffective strategies in today’s market. Instead, Miu Miu’s approach might be seen as “boring,” “not creative,” or “not eye-catching” to some. It’s the same three busts that have been there for years, some cubes, and once in a while, a lightbox. The stores have open windows, allowing customers to see inside and recognize the familiar Miu Miu tone that hasn’t been updated in years. And here’s the kicker—it works.
Why does it work for Miu Miu? Because they understand that a store’s purpose is to sell, plain and simple. But here’s where it gets interesting—Miu Miu clearly understands the nuance of different customer relationships. A loyal customer experiences the store differently than a single-purchase customer, but all of these interactions happen under the same roof. A store has to manage these different relationships seamlessly. This is a strategy that knows that if a customer steps into a store, the intent to buy existed long before they even Googled the nearest location. This strategy aligns perfectly with my “stop making displays” philosophy, which says: Dear brands, invest your money somewhere else but not in window displays—sigh, ironic yet oh-so-wonderful. A visual merchandising strategy should not pretend to have the impact of an advertising campaign or an event; it should simply support the sale.
But let’s get clinical. Just take a look at Miu Miu’s displays from the last few seasons. What do you see? In Chappell Roan’s style, let me give you that number—1-800-PRO-DUCT! Miu Miu keeps the focus on the product, and that’s why it works for them. It’s a strategy that’s crystal clear, purpose-driven, and, in today’s world, remarkably effective. I look at the windows and see jackets, dresses, t-shirts, sandals, heels, loafers, big bags, small bags, accessories, etc., etc., etc. All branded: Miu Miu. There’s no second-guessing; you know exactly what you’re walking into, and that’s the power of clarity.
This approach is not just a stroke of luck; it’s the consequence of a solid corporate strategy that recognizes the changing landscape of consumer behavior. Miu Miu has tapped into the psyche of today’s buyers—particularly Gen Z—who value authenticity, consistency, and a no-nonsense approach. The brand has crafted a space where the product is the hero, where the customer isn’t bombarded with unnecessary fluff.
What’s fascinating is that this success story is happening while other brands are floundering, desperately trying to reinvent themselves. It’s as if Miu Miu is saying, “We know who we are, and we know what our customers want.” This is a rare confidence in the luxury market, where so many are quick to pivot at the slightest sign of trouble. But not Miu Miu. They’ve stayed the course and refined what works, and the numbers are proof that this strategy pays off.
So, keep doing what you’re doing, Miu Miu. It works for you, but don’t expect it to work for everyone else. This visual merchandising strategy is the result of a cohesive, well-executed corporate strategy, and it wouldn’t survive on its own. I’m talking to you… [I said I wouldn’t mention the brand, but if you insist, just DM (ask nicely) me and I’ll tell you].
