2024/06 Dsquared2 – #D2MetaMorph


Details:

Dsquared2

#D2MetaMorph

Fall-Winter 2024

Via Pietro Verri 4, Milan


Review:

by Peter Hamer
july 10, 2024

Part of my own designed job description is to take a look at the shows of most brands. While I strive to see all of them, the number of shows and presentations keeps growing every season, making it more challenging but not impossible. As I review the shows, I contemplate how each collection will eventually arrive at retail and, of course, how they will display these collections. Having studied brand merchandising strategies for over a decade, I can discern when concepts are “made for retail” and when they lean more towards the conceptual. This distinction is crucial because in the made-for-retail concepts, the teams know precisely what they need to do. In the conceptual ones, they must delve deeper to translate a complex idea into something that’s immediately understood. If not, they might miss the mark, and the customer won’t get it.

From the FW24 shows, Dsquared2 stood out as one of my favorites. It was a great mix of what we know of the brand, with a lot of glitter, wearable pieces, and styling on point. It was quintessentially Dsquared2. The concept of the collection was metamorphosis, showcasing both daywear and eveningwear versions of the same person. In the show, models walked into a “capsule” where they would be “zapped” from day to evening—an ingenious concept. The show space was white with neon lighting details, identical to the concept of the window display.

However, while the setting is identical, transforming this concept of metamorphosis into a window display without the use of moving elements is a challenge. The display features the day and eveningwear looks standing back to back on a spinning platform. But who will grasp the genius of the show? Or the whole basis of this collection from this display alone? I fear no one will, at least not those who didn’t see the full show or read the liner notes. A concept like this shines on a catwalk, but translating it into a static display requires more thoughtful execution.

Additionally, considering we’re living in a world that is getting warmer, I question the relevance of featuring a shearling coat and furry boots in a window display today. Rules are meant to be broken, and Dsquared2 has the capability to do so—so why don’t they? The challenge lies in crafting a narrative that resonates with today’s consumers while maintaining the essence of the brand. Without this, even a well-loved brand risks becoming static, unable to engage or inspire on an emotional level.