2023/09 Gucci – Ancora (Coming Soon)
Details:
Gucci
Ancora
Spring-Summer 2024
Via Monte Napoleone 5/7, Milan
Review:
by Peter Hamer
september 26, 2023
I won’t lie; it took a hot minute to get my thoughts on paper for this review. Between sifting through emotions and diving deep into primary and secondary sources, I wanted to do justice to what I’d observed. Four days have elapsed since Sabato di Sarno unveiled his Gucci collection, and boy, the world hasn’t stopped talking. From the fashion gurus to the everyday Joe, everyone’s got a two cents. And with Alessandro Michele’s departure, the whisper on everyone’s lips was, “So, what’s Gucci going to do now?”
Enter “Ancora“. Not just a catchy name, but a campaign, a whole mood, and heck, it’s even inked on di Sarno’s inner arm. Chicken or egg situation with the tattoo, anyone? This word was everywhere during the SS24 launch. And while ancora (translating to “again”) cheekily makes me think of an annoying rash that won’t quit, Gucci spins it as a second honeymoon with fashion. Alright then, Gucci.
Brera saw an exhibit pop up, initially the stage for the show before Mother Nature had other plans. It boasted works from four artists handpicked by di Sarno, each giving us their love letter to Milan’s beauty. Sponsored by Accademia Belle Arti Brera, there was also this book sprinkled with images, a di Sarno special. Now, juxtaposing this with the 70 years of the horsebit loafer / SS24 men’s launch I graced earlier, it felt like swapping out a Gucci clutch for a… mood board? An unexpected turn.
Cue the show. There I was, streaming it, and, “Ay mira! It’s Bad Bunny!” Would Karol G make a cameo next? Spoiler: she didn’t. As much as the show was easy on the eyes, I couldn’t help but wonder, where’s the meat? Where’s the Milano magic? The democratization of fashion? The whole love song?
And here’s where things get real: we’re staring down the barrel of a recession. Spending habits are bound to do the cha-cha in unexpected directions. Now, most companies would go by the motto, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Stick to the playbook, avoid risks. But then, there’s fashion – and in this world, playing it too safe can be the riskiest move of all. Pulling off something on this scale, keeping the very essence of fashion alive, requires a dash of daring. If we’re trying to make folks fall head over heels for fashion ancora, you can’t just seem like you’re out for their wallets. Where’s the dream in that? Who exactly are you courting?
Alright, let’s spill: Gucci isn’t just a brand, it’s an icon. Having braved many a tempest, it’s consistently emerged more dazzling than ever. If Gucci doesn’t epitomize fashion’s heartbeat, then who does? Its essence extends far beyond the brilliance of its creative captains; it taps into something enduring, something ageless. While certain brands (cough, Lanvin) find themselves lost in the sartorial wilderness post a creative star’s exit, Gucci? It dances to its own electric rhythm. Those golden eras of yesteryears? They’re exactly that – ancient history. Gucci doesn’t dwell well in the past, it should stride forward.
But here’s the kicker: Gucci, making up a staggering 52% of Kering’s turnover and boasting revenues north of €10.47 billion, is clearly under the spotlight. The question looms large: Can the brand chart a course through not just corporate quagmires but also a business blueprint that screams… ancora? It’s not just the collection that feels like a rehash – the communication and, ultimately, the retail strategy echo a familiar refrain. Sure, the swanky switch to the new Gucci Rosso hoarding at the Milan store was a smart touch, and those video screens at the temporary store in Via Pietro Verri, ticking down to D-day, added drama. But was it groundbreaking? Or even necessary? Innovation in the fashion landscape isn’t just about turning out jaw-dropping ensembles or setting styling trends. The real game-changer? Reimagining the business of fashion itself, not doing the same thing ancora.