2023/09 Ferragamo – FW23

#Brand Color #Brand Concept #Campaign #Communication Concept #FW23

Details:

Ferragamo

Fall-Winter 2023

Via Monte Napoleone 20/4, Milan (Men and Women)

Review:

by Peter Hamer
september 24, 2023

Ever since Ferragamo initiated its rebranding, I’ve hesitated to critique their displays for two main reasons. Firstly, it’s an ongoing transformation, and secondly, my personal bias towards the brand.

So, what’s the judgment on Ferragamo’s latest displays? The brand has taken varied approaches: initially emphasizing the new color red for five months, highlighting product details during Design Week, and showcasing creativity in their PF23 display. This was before reverting to their red theme for the Fall-Winter display.

The SS23 display stood out, rich in its messaging and holding immense potential for a consistent display language. However, this potential was soon replaced by a design less congruent with the brand’s identity, new or old. From a discussion with the brand’s top management, I emphasized the significance of an engaging display narrative, reducing the need to lean heavily on the product or advertisement. Historically, Ferragamo has often emphasized either the product or communication. With the rebranding, I expected a fresh strategy.

Yet, the FW23 seems to mirror past strategies. The focus is on the campaign, with the product almost lost amidst imposing light boxes featuring a single campaign image. The color red has made a comeback, complemented by a navy shade reminiscent of the collection.

The accompanying photos showcase the men’s boutique, temporarily hosting the women’s collection during renovations. The ground floor, still echoing the sunset degradé theme of the SS23 collection, now feels like an overstayed pop-up shop. Ferragamo appears conflicted. While Maximilian Davis’s visionary runway shows shine, that clarity seems lost in retail—too many compromises, too many risks from a business perspective. But, inconsistent visions can lead to indecisive corporate moves. This display seems to amalgamate various elements, ultimately prioritizing advertising spend. It begs the question: Who does Ferragamo aspire to be, and how will that translate at retail?

For reference, check out the women’s hoarding announcing the renovation.

reference display:

2023/09 FERRAGAMO – UNDER RENOVATION