2023/09 Burberry – FW23
Details:
Burberry
Fall-Winter 2024
Via Monte Napoleone 12, Milan
Review:
by Peter Hamer
september 19, 2023
Personally, I had high expectations for Burberry’s FW23 window concept, which marks its debut under Daniel Lee’s direction. The imagery the brand has produced under Lee’s guidance has been saturated, nostalgic, and vibrant. The teaser window for this collection was a highlight for me at the beginning of the year. Moreover, I found some pieces from the show, like the double-face check coats, to be great. All of this excitement built up my expectations, wondering how they would leverage various elements – the show, communication, and products – to bring this new “old” Burberry to life.
However, let’s break it down. The creative concept for the window display is centered around the rose. The rose made its first appearance in the brand’s first Instagram post following their reset, cleverly referencing England without being too overt. Throughout the collection, the rose motif appeared on shoes, bags, outerwear, pants, knitwear, jerseys (accompanied by the slogan “Roses Aren’t Always Red”), and jewelry. In the windows, though, the rose is only implied through what seems to be a petal and a metal stem, with a greyish-pink color scheme. The displayed products include the Kennington trench, two Step Rose sandals in shearling, and two Knight bags, all for women.
Now, let’s discuss the verdict.
Where are the previous marketing investments? Where’s the knight? Where’s the blue? Where’s the bold and saturated visual language that was previously promoted? While there might be strategic reasons for these choices, the real question is: where is the check? Engaging with a creative concept is always a gamble. Will the customers understand it? What about potential new customers? To expand and make more money, attracting new customers is essential (while retaining the existing ones, of course). To do this effectively, you need something that’s either reassuring or incredibly bold. This concept seems to be neither. It doesn’t align with the old Burberry aesthetic, nor does it fully embrace the new one; it’s just a creative display. And in this case, that’s a missed opportunity.
In hindsight, as I explore my archives, I can’t help but think of the “queen of the rose,” Blumarine. If you look at their SS16 display or the reference gallery below, you’ll see an example of a display that effectively leverages the brand’s identity.
Reference Concept:
2016/04 Blumarine – SS16
